What does Offset mean?
Offset is the distance between the hub mounting face at the back of the wheel and the wheel's center line.
Offset is usually stamped or engraved into the wheel and is measured in millimeters of "ET" [ET is the short form of the German word "Einpresstiefe," which literally translates as "insertion depth"].
Positive Offset wheels have their mounting face toward the front face of the wheel. Most front wheel drive vehicles have positive ET wheels.
Zero Offset wheels have their mounting face even with the centerline of the wheel and are by definition "ET 0."
Negative Offset wheels have their mounting face toward the rear of the wheel - powerful rear-wheel drive cars often have wheels with the negative offset.
The Pitch Circle Diameter (PCD) is the diameter of the circle, which passes through the center of all studs, wheel bolts, or wheel rim holes.
The easiest way calculate the PCD is as follows:
Measure the distance 'S' between two adjacent studs from the centre of each hole.
Calculate from the formula below
**Note: on 4 lug fitments you can measure from the center of one stud to the center of the stud directly opposite.
PCD Calculation Formula
4 Stud PCD = S / 0.7071
5 Stud PCD = S / 0.5278
6 Stud PCD = S / 0.5
The "center bore" of a wheel is the size of the hole at the back of the wheel, which the "hub" fits into. To help the wheels seat properly, this hole needs to be an exact match to the size of the hub.
Most modern wheels are what's called "hub-centric" - this means that the hub, which protrudes from your vehicle [and mates with the equivalent-sized hole at the back of your wheel] is "load bearing." All the studs or bolts do, therefore, is hold the wheel onto the hub!
Some people will say the term "lug-centric." They are referring to the use of the lugs to put the wheel on the vehicle in the proper position. If you have "lug-centric" wheels, the state of your studs or bolts is obviously more critical - be sure to replace these from time to time and always 3/4 tighten the wheels off the car to ensure they're centered. However, this is the term that should not really be used with modern-day vehicles. Hub centric rings are the correct way to align the wheel properly on the vehicle.
Why are hub-centric rings so important?
As mentioned above, these rings keep the wheel aligned on the vehicle hub, while fastening the wheel to the vehicle. After the wheel is properly torqued, the hub centric ring does nothing! The ring is only used at the time of fastening.
Does the hub-centric ring material matter?
The answer here is - not really. Again, these rings only are needed, while fastening the wheel to the vehicle. Some people may think that metal is better because it's stronger. There is no need for a strong ring because it is not a structural piece. Additionally, metal rings tend to corrode and can make it difficult to remove the wheel or the hub centric ring from the vehicle.
The argument has also been made that plastic rings melt. Well, while at some point this may be true, there are race vehicles that use plastic rings on the track for multiple seasons without ever running into this melting problem.
Plus-Sizing or Up-Stepping are two terms given to the practice of increasing the diameter of your wheels, while simultaneously reducing the profile of your tires to keep the overall rolling diameter the same.
Benefits
Plus-Sizing will improve the handling of your vehicle! Each step will reduce the proportion of flexible tire "sidewall" to rigid alloy. This will improve response, help keep the tire tread square to the road, and improve your auto's "feedback." If done properly, speedo and odometer accuracy will be retained and the vehicle is sure to look better (note: this properly refers to maintaining the vehicle’s stock overall rolling diameter).
Disadvantages
In the majority of situations, tire inches are lighter than wheel inches. Plus-Sizing can make your overall wheel/tire package heavier. Reducing the profile of your tires will also reduce your vehicle's damping deflection under compression (the ride quality will get worse). Other disadvantages can include the need for more expensive tires, your brakes looking puny. One more important thing to think about whenever you change the tire or wheel size is your environment and the area you usually drive on. If you drive in areas where the road surface tends to be rough (i.e. non-paved roads or pot hole invested streets), you may want to consider leaving a decent amount of the tire. The more tire and cushion, the less wheel bends you may encounter. Sometimes, choosing a wheel is more then just what looks best.
All wheels should be installed using a torque wrench. This ensures that the wheels are not too tight or too loose. Check your vehicle's manual for correct settings. When you install wheels for the first time, you should retorque the wheels after about 60 to 90 miles. Always refer to the Owner's Manual for proper factory specifications that take precedence over the listed recommendations.
Here are some basic starting numbers you can follow: 12mm = 70-80 ft. lbs, 7/16in = 55-65 ft. lbs, 1/2in = 75-85 ft. lbs, 14mm = 85-95 ft. lbs, 9/16in = 95-115 ft. lbs, 5/8in = 135-145 ft. lbs.
This torque should be applied in the correct pattern for the amount of studs of that particular vehicle.
One of the most asked questions is what is the best way to care or clean a wheel. The answer is far less complicated then most would think. The answer is soap and warm water. The use of chemical cleaners often cause damage to the clear coat used on the wheels. This can result in pealing, flaking, or burn spots. The use of special cleaners and wheels’ soaps should be viewed very carefully. Any soap or cleaner that you put on your wheel may contain chemicals or some type of acidity to help remove dirt. This is why KONIG only recommends a "safe" vehicle soap and warm water for wheel cleaning.
The best care for any wheel is to clean it often, so that brake dust and other contaminants do not remain on the wheel for too long. Things like brake dust, overtime become acidic and corrosive itself. Others, who experience winter weather driving, should be proactive in cleaning "road salt" off their wheels during the winter as well. There are few chemicals placed on the roads to aid in snow melting and tire traction and called "salt." In either case they should be cleaned off your vehicle’s paint and wheels regularly during the winter to maintain a safe and proper finish. The best way to care for a wheel is to think of it like an extension of your vehicle's paint. If you wouldn't put it on your paint, you shouldn't put it on your wheel.
The short answer is no. The longer answer is a high recommendation to not running center caps in your wheels while racing. This really holds true mostly for those who are road racing or experiencing longer duration racing, which would cause a build-up of heat. Many of KONIG center caps are produced in plastic with a metal locking ring. If you run these types of caps on the track, once they heat up from transfer of heat from heavy braking, they will become unsecured from the wheels. This loss of cap is not a valid warranty claim (especially in the off-road racing use). **If you’re participating through the NASA program, this is explained in the program paperwork you completed and KONIG generally does not include center caps in your orders. ** With all of this said, most of KONIG Flow Formed wheels come with metal caps, which are secured onto the wheel with allen screws. These caps, when properly installed, will not come lose with heat. It’ll be better if you remove center caps before racing. Your local track or tech may even recommend this to you.
KONIG recommends using spline drive, tuner diameter, conical seat lug nuts/bolts (if applicable). Some of KONIG wheels may be drilled to accept an Acorn-sized lug nut. However, the spline drive hardware mentioned above will work in both single and dual drilled wheels, it has a smaller diameter that comes with a key, which helps prevent scratching on installation, and is a small security measure from theft.
No, KONIG is a wheel manufacturer and does not produce lug nuts. This is the same as most other wheel manufacturers. There are plenty of hardware manufacturers out there, producing quality lug nuts and mounting hardware. KONIG recommends working with your wheel installer or a reputable wheel and tire shop to purchase the correct hardware for your wheels.
KONIG only produces wheels for your vehicle. The hardware (lugs) that you may find on your wheels would have been ordered and possibly installed by the dealer or retailer where the purchase was made. KONIG wheels does not offer installation hardware with the wheels. With a handful of major lug nut brands available and a bunch more in the marketplace, it would be extremely difficult for KONIG to identify which hardware you have on your vehicle. That is why KONIG strongly recommends that you return to the original place of purchase or a trusted local wheel and tire professional in your area.
KONIG always recommends hub centric rings for the installation. Most issues related to vibration occur because of the failure to install hub centric rings. KONIG does not offer hub centric rings with the wheels. The installer should ensure they order or have the appropriate hub centric rings for each individual application. On a few applications, especially with BMWs, KONIG’s product may be hub centric.
This is always a tricky question to answer without being there in person. For this reason we recommend going to a reputable wheel and tire shop who has the knowledge to work on this for you. In most cases, especially on a recent installation, it will be the absence of hub centric rings in your wheels. If this is a newer installation, check hub rings first! If you have hub rings, you may wish to return to the installer to ensure all wheels are sitting against the hub of your vehicle, are properly torqued and correctly balanced, and have the correct hardware.
Soap and warm water. KONIG recommends frequent cleaning of your wheels with a non-acidic based soap and water. Things from exposure to the elements and even the inevitable brake dust that will get onto wheels can corrode the protective clear coating on the wheels. Brake dust, if left on wheels for lengthy amount of time, turn acidic and can eat through the protective clear coating. KONIG also recommends avoiding car washes and acidic wheel cleaners on your wheels. You should use any cleaner that may treat your wheels finish like you would treat the finish of your painted, clear coated vehicle and you should have a long and fantastic appearance of your wheels!
Living in a harsh climate (such as severe winters) and driving on rough surfaces can negatively affect the appearance of your wheels. This is not the case with only KONIG product. This is the case with all wheels. KONIG recommendations to those who must keep their wheels in harsh weather conditions (i.e. winter) are to clean them frequently. Frequency will depend on the amount of use and exposure, however, removing the chemicals that cause corrosion to the wheels as soon as possible is the key. The chemicals used on the roads are extremely corrosive and will eat through the protective clear coating on the wheels. That is why removing these chemicals will prolong the finish of your wheels. The rough roads debris can also scratch and degrade the protective clear coating on the wheels. For example, loose rocks and sand at speed can certainly scratch and cause nicks in the finish of your wheels. While this is common sense for most, the care you provide in the use of your wheels will reflect the difference in their appearance.
Yes, KONIG always recommends going with a fully-painted wheel if you live in poor weather areas and are making the choice to keep them on your vehicle the full year. KONIG recommends putting your stock wheels on during the winter, however a painted wheel tends to hold up better to the corrosive chemicals used to prevent roads from freezing.
99.9% of all bent or damaged wheels come from a significant road hazard or impact. Wheels are made of metal, not magic. While its always frustrating, a significant impact to a wheel can cause it to bend or become significantly damaged. KONIG builds its wheels to exceed industry standards and safety is always its number-one concern during any wheel development. After such an impact, KONIG recommends inspecting the wheel and then bringing it to a local wheel and tire shop to have it inspected for safety.
There are some things you can try to prevent damaged/bent wheels. One of the major things is to ensure proper air pressure in your tires. The amount of air (PSI) should go according to the vehicle and tire manufacturer. Basically, a bent wheel indicates a significant impact. The absence of proper air pressure, combined with a road hazard, could cause a wheel to become damaged as the “cushion” that proper air pressure creates, is not there to protect the wheel. One of the other things that you should constantly do is to ensure that you are continually scanning the road for road debris and pot holes. The final obvious tip KONIG has for you is to regularly check the proper torque of the mounting hardware of your wheels. This is especially true within 50 miles of the installation and after anytime your vehicle has been serviced, where a wheel might have been removed/installed. This will help you spot issues before they can cause catastrophic problems.
There are some things you can do to try and prevent damaged / bent wheels. One of the major things is to ensure proper air pressure in your tires. The amount of air (psi) should go according to the vehicle manufacturer and the tire manufacturer. Basically a bent wheel indicates a significant impact. The absence of proper air pressure with enough of a road hazard could cause a wheel to become damaged as the “cushion” that proper air pressure creates is not there to protect the wheel. One of the other things that you should constantly do is ensure you are continually scanning the road for road debris and pot holes. The final obvious tip we have for you is to regularly check the proper torque of the mounting hardware of your wheels. This is especially true with in 50 miles of installation and after anytime your vehicle has been serviced where a wheel might have been removed / installed. This will help you spot issues before they can cause you catastrophic problems.